"Relax, This is Kashmir" - Team Gulmarg 2007

It was an epic trip in every sense of the word, one for the ages. Below is a little piece I wrote on the experience. Hope you enjoy;



As Australian skiers, our frustration with local conditions, crowds and extortionate prices often has us looking overseas for more satisfying alternatives. A journey to the ski resort of Gulmarg in Kashmir offers satisfaction in spades and an experience like no other.



Gulmarg lies within Indian controlled Kashmir, approximately 50km south west of Srinagar, the state’s summer capital. Since the division of India and Pakistan in 1947, Kashmir has been a territory disputed by both nations. The volatility of the region has eased since the height of unrest in the 1990’s, however a number of foreign governments still advise against unnecessary travel. The military presence remains highly visible, particularly in public places such as the airport, bridges and shops. Stoppages at checkpoints are a regular occurrence, but a simple smile and mention of the Australian cricket team will have you on your way in no time.



The drive from Srinagar up to Gulmarg can be a hair raising experience. Western road rules have no place in Kashmir and liberal use of the horn is mandatory. A mixture of vibrant villages and rice paddies line the road up to the town of Tangmarg, nestled at the bottom of the 13 km climb to Gulmarg. Throughout the journey one cannot help but notice the hive of activity in the region: houses being built; shops doing a roaring trade and children playing cricket in every spare inch of space. From Tangmarg, the vegetation changes to present a more familiar alpine environ. Tall pine trees and snow dominate the scene, as the road meanders ever upwards towards Gulmarg. All told the trip should take around 2hrs from Srinagar. However getting stuck behind one of the lengthy military convoys can add considerable time to the trip.



After a long journey, the beauty of Gulmarg provides an instant pep. The town rests in a large meadow at the base of Mount Apharwat standing at over 4000m high and 5km across. During the day Gulmarg (meaning ‘Meadow of Flowers’) is alive with Indian tourists and sled pullers, offering rides to any destination you desire. Local markets sell only the most basic of essentials, but will cater for your every need including a blade shave and tailored Kashmiri attire, should the mood strike. But for those seeking ‘powder in paradise’ it is the mountain that is the real attraction.



Like a century standing guard, Mount Apharwat is an imposing figure on the landscape. Its beauty is undeniable, looking almost painted onto the backdrop of the Himalayan sky.



Not to be outdone, the skiing and boarding in Gulmarg is befitting the location. Massive expanses of open terrain, huge vertical (more than any resort in North America) and crowds that can be counted on one hand are only the beginning. The ridgelines are endless, the wind is non existent and the powder is plentiful, deep and dry. Often the only sounds to be heard are the ‘whoooops’ of exaltation from fellow skiers and the only facial expression to be seen is an infectious Cheshire cat grin.



The solitary gondola operates in two phases with the first accessing the lower tree covered slopes providing gentler terrain and all weather visibility. The second phase provides access to the expert only slopes of Mount Apharwat proper, climbing to just under 4000m. From the summit, riders are spoilt for choice. Numerous ridgelines are accessible either by hiking up and over the summit (40min) or via an easy traverse to lower lines. In a good season it’s possible to ski down to the lower villages of Drang, Babareshi and Tangmarg or in clear weather embark on an overnight expedition to distant Sunshine Peak.



For all her beauty, the mountain has a dark side, as was tragically evidenced with the death of an Australian snowboarder in an avalanche this season. This is serious big mountain riding on a serious hill. Gulmarg has no place for reckless riders, egos or ignoramuses. It is a place that commands and enforces respect. As the locals say ‘mountain is ultimate big boss’. Riders should carry all necessary avalanche equipment and more importantly be well versed in using it. Ski patrol comprises a mixture of local patrollers and experienced foreign volunteers who provide training and leadership. With limited resources and no avalanche bombing allowed due to military restrictions, only the main bowl on the upper Apharwat slopes is currently patrolled. After heavy snowfalls the second phase of the gondola is often closed for extended periods to allow for the snow pack to settle.



Over the past 12 months, Gulmarg has enjoyed a surge in international interest from riders, potential tour operators and film makers. But Gulmarg is not for everyone. The highly visible military presence aside, the unreliability of the gondola can be incredibly frustrating and makes short trips less viable. Power cuts can take hours out of your skiing day. Tickets must be purchased from the ever elusive man with the briefcase and is often an experience comparable to a game of hide and seek. The on mountain amenities will make even the hardiest traveller think twice and the lack of any real grooming will leave some with few skiing options. Hot showers, broadband internet, money facilities, a vibrant après ski and nightlife are not on the menu in Gulmarg. But for many, that is the cornerstone of the attraction.



Gulmarg has so much more to offer outside the trappings of the modern ski resort. During a busy day, a sum total of around 80-100 riders will be on the mountain, a figure usually reserved for the lift line at an Australian resort. Fresh lines are available for days after new snow, not hours. Big dumps are a given, not a pleasant surprise and some of the best skiing in the world is a guarantee not a fantasy. These aspects alone make for a memorable trip but it is the locals, with their overwhelming friendliness and desire to please who leave a truly lasting impression.



Outside the major attraction of skiing, side trips to the nearby villages of Tangmarg and Babareshi provide good opportunities to restock supplies and watch the day to day activities of the local villagers. A couple of nights on a houseboat on Dal Lake in Srinagar is a great way to end the trip or rest the legs mid stay. While many houseboats are relics of former glory days, there are still a number of beautiful floating palaces that provide excellent accommodation and exemplary service. Srinagar itself is a pleasant city to spend a day wandering around with a number of attractions such as the floating gardens that are worth some time. Srinagar also offers decent shopping for local handicrafts such as jewellery and pashminas.



Whether Gulmarg will change and develop into a ‘world class’ resort will depend as much on the political situation in the region as the local community’s desire to share their home with hordes of frothing powder hounds each winter. An easy ski holiday it is not, but a unique and truly memorable experience it surely is. If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Gulmarg next winter just remember to ‘Relax…this is Kashmir’